Back in Cambodia for the first time in a decade. Phnom Penh has changed massively. Where there were once only potholes there is a now a well paved road into town from the airport. There is even a skyscraper in town - though anyone working above the 10th floor must do so knowing there is not a fire engine in the country with enough pressure to help them in the event of a fire.
We cadged a lift in to town with our friends Nic and Emmett, who have joined us from Hong Kong to enjoy a week in sun on an island off Cambodia's southern coast.
One thing certainly hasn't changed, Phnom Penh's tuk-tuk drivers are the most persistent in Asia. Within seconds of disembarking at Nic and Emmet's river front hotel we are besieged by an army of them. We then spend the next ten minutes on route to our hotel, the very grand Raffles-owned Le Royal, telling our driver to watch the road as he turns almost completely round in his seat and attempts to persuade us to take his trip to the Killing Fields.
So, a blessed relief to reach Le Grand Royal's sweeping drive, be whisked inside by splendidly attired porters, and be offered cool towels, and this beautifully served, wonderfully refreshing welcome fruit drink.
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