The Ying to Wijaya's Yang, Rathna is wholesome and unpretentious. Matriarchal cook Pushpa has a welcome as big as her smile.
Her tiny, beach shack restaurant is almost in the Indian Ocean. On this coast locals fish on stilts in the surf: no surprises what's the favourite dish in local restaurants.
Pushpa's prawn and fish curries are superb: you must order at lunchtime to give her enough time to prepare (nothing is rushed on Sri Lanka's south coast). Did the fish come from the stilt fishermen, or from the trawlers on the horizon every evening? Pushpa's son claims all their fish comes from local fishermen, so we hope it was sustainable.
Depending on which day you order, your curry will come accompanied by brown rice still in its red husks, thick green bean curry, pumpkin curry and heavily seasoned tomato layered on top of cucumber. All curry powders here are made by Pushpa from scratch using cinnamon, cardamon and other local spices. Wonderful.
Go for the traditional fish curries, eaten so close to the sea you can smell the surf, watching cannibal crabs devour their younger brethren.
Bill for two, including soft drinks and gorgeous banana fritter: 1500 rupees (£8, AU$14)
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